What I Drank Last Night

Venerable.

Chateau Libertas might be a “paragon of value and drinkability” according to Platter’s 2012 but the truth of the matter is that this 80-year-old Distell-owned brand has been running out of puff. “Supermarkets started it using it as a loss-leader and discounting it heavily. We got stuck in Obikwa and Tall Horse territory,” says marketing spokesperson Jackie Olivier.

How to revitalise the brand? For one thing, a packaging make-over (see here) which will hopefully get punters to engage with the brand once again. For another, a vertical tasting going back to 1940 to demonstrate the excellent value relative to price that this brand has delivered over the decades.

Production of the fantastic 1978 amounted to 300 000 litres and the wine sold for all of R26 a twelve-bottle case. Volumes grew to an all-time high of 2.2 million litres in 2000 and now sits at 800 000 litres, the 2010 having a recommended retail price of R34 a bottle.

1940: 16/20
Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon but including Cinsaut and some of the Port varieties. Abv 14.93%. Decaying forest floor, orange rind and caramel on the nose. Rich, thick textured and mellow on the palate. Not unlike Tawny Port.

1957: 17/20
Marmite, earthy, truffle-like notes on the nose. Good vinosity. Dark fruit, fresh to the point of tart acidity and fine tannins.

1962: 15.5/20
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Pinotage, 10% Gamay, 5% Cinsaut, 5% Shiraz. Red fruit, spice and slight vegetal overtone on the nose. Medium bodied, appealing but no great intensity, moderate acidity.

1978: 17.5/20
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cinsaut. Lovely fynbos perfume and red fruit on the nose. Juicy and fresh on the palate. Great fruit expression for its age. Delicate but very flavourful. Well balanced.

1982: 15.5/20
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cinsaut. Red and black fruit as well as tobacco on the nose. Medium bodied with bright acidity and fine tannins. Lacks intensity but not without charm.

1994: 15/20
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Cinsaut. Dark fruit, herbal edge. Austere and lacking distinction.

1999: 16.5/20
Red fruit on the nose and palate. Relatively rich and broad with good fruit concentration and a hint of spice. Bright acidity lends balance. Entirely satisfying.

2000: 15/20
Red and black fruit on the nose and palate. Acidity appears quite sharp making the wine feel angular and awkward.

2009: 15/20
Slight reductive note. Dark fruit on the nose and palate. Medium bodied, bright acidity, little tannic grip. Simple but not unpleasing.

2010: 14.5/20
Very reductive. Black cherry on the nose and palate. Light bodied, tart acidity and finishes quite short.

Unassuming.

Judging the Shiraz category at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show last week, I despaired at how many examples seemed overblown with big alcohols (14.5% and up) as well as significant residual sugar. Strandveld in Elim might be attracting attention for its white wines but its Shiraz is not to be overlooked – last night the 2008 under second label First Sighting really impressed for its understatement. Red cherry, herbs and pepper on the nose while the palate was almost light-bodied but really flavourful and fresh. Includes 1% Viognier (which obviously makes all the difference). Matured for 12 months in 300-litre barrels, 20% new. Abv 13.5%, RS 2.9 g/l, TA 5.6g/l, pH 3.4. Score: 16/20.

Resistance is futile.

My guilty pleasure at the moment is Nederburg The Winemaster’s Reserve Riesling 2011 (Aroma Drop Inn price: R39.99 a bottle). From Paarl vineyards, it was tank fermented in three batches, each with a different yeast. Plenty of lime and just enough terpene character to add interest. Sweet on entry and thick textured, there’s also a bracing acidity which lends balance. Abv 11.99%, RS 12g/l, TA 7.08g/l, pH 3.05. Score: a very more-ish 16/20.

Judging for the 2012 Concours Mondial was held over 4 to 6 May in Portugal and have now been announced. Top performing South African wines were as follows:

Great Gold Medal Winners (equivalent to a score of 92.5 to 100 on the 100-point scale)
Cloof Wine Estate The Very Sexy Shiraz 2009
Cirrus Syrah 2008
Cirrus Syrah 2009
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Spier Wines Savanha Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Gold Medal Winners (equivalent to a score of 87 to 92.4 on the 100-point scale)
Abalone 1e Hoop Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Spier Wines 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2010
Boschendal 1685 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Brampton Shiraz 2009
Bellingham The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage 2010
Dieu Donné the Cross Collection Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Douglas Green Chenin Blanc 2011
Du Toit Family Driehoek Shiraz 2010
Fairview Eenzaamheid 2009
Fairview Viognier 2010
Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2011
Fairview Primo Pinotage 2010
Franschhoek Cellar Franschhoek Statue de Femme Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage 2008
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2009
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2011
La Motte Shiraz 2009
Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch Ridge 2009
Saronsberg Brut Methode Cap Classique 2008
Saronsberg Full Circle 2009
Spier Wines Savanha Naledi Merlot 2009
Spier Creative Block 3 2009
Spier Creative Block 8 2010
Spier Private Collection Merlot 2009
Spier Private Collection Shiraz 2009
Thelema Shiraz 2009

In praise of older wine.

Quick lunch with my sweetheart wife at Magica Roma, Pinelands to mark the passing of another year. Could there be a more perfect accompaniment to grilled calamari with chilli and garlic than a glass of Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2011? No need for a squeeze of lemon with the citrus flavour and bright acidity of the wine.

Then on to  Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Hugues et Louis-Bétalt Beaune 1971, with me very much 41 years old and the wine a few months off. To eat, snail, bacon and pancetta pasta. The wine was sublime, managing to be both rich and fresh. Red cherry, mushrooms and musk. Surprisingly thick textured and the perfect foil for the hearty dish.

Rage against the machine.

On Friday, a vertical tasting of Luddite Shiraz followed by lunch in the courtyard at the Old Biscuit Mill complex in Woodstock. The Luddites originally consisted of bands of English workers who broke weaving machines that threatened their craft in the early 19^th century and Niels and Penny Verburg  who make Luddite wine have adopted the ethos that “technology and mechanization will never be a substitute for passion”.

Maiden vintage of Luddite Shiraz was 2000 made from bought-in fruit while 2004 saw a portion of grapes from the Verburg’s own Bot River property included for the first time and Niels hopes that this year will see no reason for him to include anything from elsewhere in the final wine.

Tasting notes and scores for 2005 to 2009:

2005: 17/20
Spice, earth and a hint of savoury development on the nose. Dark fruit, bright acidity, relatively firm tannins. A noble rusticity about it.

2006: 16/20
Red and black fruit on the nose and palate. Rich and full with moderate acidity and a thick, smooth texture. Opulent.

2007: 17/20
Red fruit and some fynbos-like fragrance. Good concentration, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Well balanced and age-worthy.

2008: 15.5/20
Ultra-ripe dark fruit and prominent oak on the nose. Prunes and raisins on the palate. Rich and full and somewhat lacking in freshness.

2009: 17/20
Very primary. Red and black fruit plus an attractive herbal note. A good line of acidity and fine tannins. Extremely promising.

Later, a suckling pig from the Verburg’s own free-roaming collective cooked in the outdoor wood-fired oven by some of the team from Luke Dale-Roberts’s The Test Kitchen. “There’s nothing better than eating something that’s had a happy life and been fed properly,” says Niels. Wine and grub made all the better because it’s brought to you by people who aren’t simply paying lip-service to a particular philosophy.

OMTWS international judge Tom Cannavan

Judging at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show was completed yesterday. There were a total of 1 023 entries from 224 producers (compared to 1 070 entries from 225 producers in 2011). It was reported that 42 gold medals (25 in 2011), 178 silver (116 in 2011) and 390 bronze (430 in 2011)were awarded. Of the 42 gold medals, white wines took 24, reds 12, Noble Late Harvest two, Port two and Muscadel two. Seven of the golds were to museum class entries.

The entry breakdown of the major classes was as follows: Shiraz 136; Chardonnay 96; Cabernet Sauvignon 94; Bordeaux-style red blends 104; Sauvignon Blanc 105; Merlot 51; Pinotage 54; Chenin Blanc 62; Pinot Noir 22, MCC 25; Rosé/Blanc de Noir 14, Semillon 13, Viognier 14 and Riesling 11.

Results are announced on 30 May.  Public tastings take place on Friday 8 June at the Sandton Sun (18h00 – 21h00) and on Friday 15 June at the CTICC (17h00 – 20h30).  Tickets are available via Computicket at www.computicket.com and cost R100 if purchased by 27 May or R120 thereafter or at the door.

Middle aged.

On Wednesday, the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show judges’ farewell dinner at the Grande Roche hotel. The menu as follows:

Duo of Franschhoek salmon trout with caviar and dill crème-fraîche
Jordan The Real McCoy Riesling – Just Riesling Trophy for Best Riesling at OMTWS 2011

Fish croustillant and avocado salsa with sweetcorn velouté
Chamonix Reserve Chardonnay 2009 – gold medal at OMTWS 2011

Trio of veal with butternut, sage and pommes fondant
Meerlust Pinot Noir 2009 – Trophy for Best Pinot Noir at OMTWS 2011

Nougat mousse milk tart with cinnamon and Port ice cream and poached pear
Nederburg The Winemaster’s Reserve Noble Late Harvest 2010 – silver medal at the OMTWS 2011

KWV Hanepoot Jerepigo 1969

After judging 136 examples of Shiraz at the Old Mutual Troph6y Wine Show yesterday, some light relief via TheDrinksBusiness.com that Fergie of hip hop group The Black Eyed Peas is to launch her own wine brand. As the website points out, she’s not the first popular entertainment figure to dabble in wine (read more).

Later night dinner at Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch, judges encouraged to bring a special bottle of wine to share with colleagues. This afforded the  opportunity to compare the Delaire Coastal Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2010, winner of best in class at last year’s Trophy Wine Show, against the highly decorated Whitehaven 2010 from Marlborough, New Zealand. Both showed granadilla and pineapple flavours without being overblown…

Die groot kanon.

The beginning of judging for Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2012 and the customary Sunday afternoon old wines tasting followed  by as informal a supper as the luxury Grande Roche hotel in Paarl can manage.

My top white wine was Backsberg Chardonnay 1985, which won Sydney Back the title of 1986 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year in the category of wood-aged white. Citrus blossom, lemon and vanilla on the nose. A palate of great precision with juicy fruit and really vibrant acidity. Medium bodied, elegant and long. Score: 17/20.

Wine of the tasting, however, was Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon 1973. Dark red with very little browning in colour, the wine showed red and black fruit, fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Great purity and focus, still remarkably tight and primary.  “Not unlike top Graves or perhaps Figeac,” suggested Brian Croser, Australian industry stalwart and one of the three international judges at this year’s competition. My score: 19/20.